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LIFESTYLE

Boierii trag la Crama Domnească

November 6th, 2011, com Comenteaza

Prin Poarta de jos a Curţii Domneşti (intrarea dinspre str. Smârdan), după ce îşi lasă  trăsura, caleaşca sau orice alt mijloc de locomoţie la barieră  (a  se citi automobilul personal sau taxiul), boierii îmbrăcaţi în  „caftane”, cum e moda azi, trag la Crama  Domnească. Boierii de acum, ca şi  boierii  de altădată  în hrubele şi pivniţele  domneşti  ridicate  aici, în  Curtea Domnească din Bucureşti, de Mircea Ciobanu în secolul al  XVI-lea, vin să  se cinstească  cu vinuri alese de la cramă  şi bucate tradiţionale, încălzindu-şi inimile pe muzica tarafului Restaurantului Voievodal Crama  Domnească.

Fiecare masă începe cu o gustare boierească ori un platou voievodal stropit cu un păhărel de ţuică Zetea sau palincă din Ardeal şi continuă, eventual, cu o ciorbă  de fasole în castron de pâine, iar apoi cu un piept de raţă  cu varză  călită, o coastă afumată şi trasă la sabie sau nişte cocoşei pitici cu usturoi şi mămăliguţă. Lista de vinuri degustate fie jos în cramă, fie într-unul  dintre celelalte două saloane ale localului, este una lungă, cu 200 de sortimente de vinuri roşii  şi  albe, toate româneşti, fiindcă boierii de azi, ca şi cei de ieri, vor să soarbă licori coapte şi învechite sub soarele valah. Şi apoi, nici oaspeţii din Apus nu doresc să bea altceva decât un vin neaoş, românesc.

Crama Domnească  aşa cum o ştim astăzi, s-a născut în anii ’68-’71 ai secolului  trecut, când regimul comunist a dorit o revigorare a turismului  românesc  şi   a  făcut  din  acest  loc  un punct de interes  turistic,  accentul căzând  pe degustarea de vinuri. În anii ’80, însă, odată cu degradarea  situaţiei economice şi  sociale din România, Crama Domnească  a cunoscut decăderea, iar după 1989  a fost chiar închisă o perioadă de zece ani, între 1998 şi 2008. Un nou proprietar a însemnat salvarea Cramei Domneşti şi transformarea ei în ceea ce este astăzi, păstrând ceva din parfumul epocilor traversate şi înscriindu-se perfect în ceea ce se numeşte  Centrul Vechi al Bucureştiului.

 

Jupânese,  jupâniţe  şi  jupâni,  când  v-aţi  săturat  să  mâncaţi brânzeturi franţuzeşti, sosuri italieneşti, garnituri nemţeşti şi alte minunăţii din Apus, veniţi de gustaţi bucate ca pe la noi. Poftiţi, boieri  dumneavoastră,  în  „Restaurant  Voievodal  Crama  Domnească“  din  centrul  vechi  al  Capitalei  şi  vă  ostoiţi  dorul  după bucatele tradiţionale româneşti!

 

Povestea localului (restaurantul actual se ridică parţial pe vechile hrube şi pivniţe domneşti), se pierde undeva în secolul al XVI-lea, şi trece apoi prin vremea lui Şerban Cantacuziono, Constantin Brâncoveanu şi a domniilor fanariote din veacul al XVII-lea.

 

text Alice-Claudia Gherman, foto Octavian Tibăr şi arhiva

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