De la Rembrandt la marihuana clonată

March 20th, 2010, Claudia Golea Gumiya

Este iarnă când ajung la Amsterdam, iar răcoarea şi spiritul exact al oraşului mă fac să mă tem că spiritul meu latin va fi întâmpinat de răceală şi oprelişti. M-am înşelat, însă.

Majoritatea localnicilor sunt relaxaţi, amabili şi toţi vorbesc engleza. Mulţi îţi cer bricheta pe stradă, iar poliţiştii îţi dau indicaţiile necesare pentru a ajunge la Rijksmuseum (muzeul naţional) şi la muzeul Van Gogh, rugându-te să fii atent să nu aluneci pe gheaţa care tocmai s-a instalat pe trotuare. De-a lungul canalelor patinez lejer până în zona Museumplein. Exactitatea locuitorilor şi clima răcoroasă a ţării nu au făcut de-a lungul timpului decât să dezvolte spiritul artistic olandez. Iubitorii de artă adoră Amsterdamul. Rembrandt a fost de-al locului şi este firesc ca Rijksmuseum-ul să cuprindă cea mai importantă colecţie de tablouri ale sale din lume. Poţi admira cât pofteşti aici faimosul Rond de noapte şi poţi analiza probleme majore de viaţă: fata din tablou este Saskia, soţia pictorului, sau nu? Iar dacă Rembrandt ţi se pare prea măreţ şi puternic, îţi poţi satisface nevoia de calm şi linişte privind pe îndelete picturile lui Vermeer. O femeie în rochie albastră citeşte o scrisoare în faţa unei ferestre şi asta este ceva foarte frumos pentru Vermeer. Vezi şi tu frumuseţe în acest moment? Dacă da, deşi nu ai învăţat să pictezi de la Vermeer, ai fost totuşi instruit în a capta magia momentelor simple ale vieţii şi a te bucura de ele.

Ca şi mine, probabil nici nu ai auzit de Hendrick Avercamp. Şi totuşi acest pictor atât de special este arhicunoscut de către iubitorii de artă care se şi pricep. Avercamp a trăit între 1557 şi 1602 într-o lume a tăcerii care-i conferă vizualului accente deosebite. El era surdo-mut, iar ceea ce vedea era magic. Priveliştile sale de iarnă sunt cele mai fermecătoare din lume şi tocmai sunt găzduite într-o expoziţie la Rijksmuseum.

Născut câteva secole mai târziu, Van Gogh a fost nebun. Nici el nu te poate învăţa să pictezi, dar îţi poate oferi lecţii preţioase în a percepe lumea dincolo de bariera senzorialului şi a vedea cât de frumoase sunt banalele floarea-soarelui sau ciorile, macii sau fluturii. Un muzeu aparte, întreg îi este dedicat la Amsterdam. Dacă nici când ieşi de acolo nu ai învăţat să vezi este păcat căci, deşi te afli la Amsterdam, nu-ţi vei da seama că ai privilegiul să vizitezi un oraş aproape perfect, cel mai civilizat şi rafinat din lume, după toate probabilităţile.

Cea mai pitorească parte a oraşului nu este însă Museumplein, ci incitantul cartier De Wallen – Cheiurile. Poate sunt faimoase datorită numeroaselor lebede albe şi negre care plutesc în apa Amstelului, dar cei care vin aici nu prea au timp pentru ele, căci De Wallen este şi cartierul faimoaselor vitrine. În spatele lor se află femei îmbrăcate sexy. De diferite rase, ele sunt mai mult sau mai puţin frumoase, dar indubitabil sexy. Costă în medie 50 de euro. A-ţi vinde corpul este una dintre libertăţile pe care le oferă Olanda.

La fel de liber este consumul de haşiş, marihuana şi ciuperci magice. Acestea se găsesc mai ales tot aici, în De Wallen, deşi aşa-numitele coffee shops împânzesc întregul Amsterdam. Varietăţile de sativă au nume fascinante precum Văduva Albă, Crema de Nepal, Doamna Neagră, Perla de Argint, Cremă Indiană, Templu Nepalez. Atenţie! Marihuana amsterdameză este extrem de puternică, fiind o marihuană clonată. Poţi vedea procedeul alături, în Muzeul Haşişului şi Marihuanei, care are acest pavilion-seră. Aici poţi vedea plantele în creştere şi cumpăra seminţe. Este recomandabil, dacă eşti începător, ca după o vizită într-un coffee shop, să te îndrepţi direct şi neabătut către hotelul tău. Sunt unii care, după ce au făcut cunoştinţă cu Văduva Albă, nu mai sunt în stare să-şi găsească propria locuinţă. Este bine, aşadar, să alegi o „cofetărie” nu neapărat în De Wallen, ci cea mai apropiată de hotelul tău. Cât despre preţul marihuanei, un joint de-a gata costă între 2.50 şi 4.50 euro. Nu se pot achiziţiona o dată mai mult de cinci grame de haşiş sau marihuana.

Cele mai frumoase în De Wallen rămân după părerea mea, lebedele. Le fotografiez cum plutesc în apa râului şi-mi atrage atenţia Biserica Veche din fundal. Se află aici, printre bordeluri, şi este impresionantă. Aici s-au căsătorit Saskia şi Rembrandt.

Nu trebuie nicidecum să crezi că la Amsterdam totul este permis. Din contra. Consumul de droguri tari este aspru pedepsit, ca de altfel orice alt gen de infracţiuni. Cerşetorii şi hoţii români nu iau cu asalt transportul public şi trotuarele, ca la Roma, de exemplu, căci nu sunt bineveniţi aici. Cei câţiva care s-au aventurat au făcut cunoştinţă cu închisorile olandeze. Aşadar, tramvaiele sunt accesibile în siguranţă, neexistând practic hoţi de buzunare. Deşi întâlneşti pe stradă o sumedenie de cetăţeni cam dezaxaţi în urma fumatului câte unui joint, nu am văzut să se fure. Amsterdamul este liber, dar cât se poate de civilizat. În ciuda acestui gen de perfecţiune, majoritatea ţărilor europene sancţionează Olanda pentru legalitatea consumului de droguri uşoare şi a prostituţiei. Unele state au ajuns să ceară Olandei introducerea unui sistem care să le pretindă vizitatorilor coffee shopurilor să se legitimeze, astfel încât numai şi numai cetăţenii olandezi să fie serviţi. Alte ţări, precum Anglia, au început să deosebească însă albul de negru şi să urmeze exemplul Olandei îndreptându-se către un sistem de decriminalizare a drogurilor. Libertatea nu este duşmanul bunului simţ şi al civilizaţiei.

De la fereastra camerei micului meu hotel mă uit cum ninge peste Amstel. Niciodată iarna nu mi s-a părut atât de curată.

Taguri: nr. 3 / martie 2010

Saturday, March 20th, 2010 at 2:50 pm, ZOOM, RSS feed

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