LIFESTYLE

Hanul lui Manuc, ultimul caravanserai

December 9th, 2011, com Comenteaza

„Hanul lui Manuc“ este un nume cu o rezonanță aparte în lunga listă de restaurante bucureștene. Un nume care, în ultimul timp, ieșise  parcă din cărți, fiind închis în 2007. Redeschiderea sa la începutul acestui an a atras imediat curioșii. S-a schimbat ceva? – ne-am pus imediat întrebarea. Am încercat să aflăm.

După ce treci pe sub poarta impunătoare a hanului, intrarea dinspre Curtea Domnească – str. Franceză, te uiţi în jur şi te întrebi imediat: au terminat renovările? Curtea localului pare finalizată, mesele de plastic, pe care le văzusem prin 2006, au fost înlocuite cu mese şi scaune din lemn şi fier forjat, există un aranjament floral şi un bar care indică faptul că aici ceva s-a schimbat. Clădirea hanului, însă, are aerul unui monument vechi, încă  nu pe deplin  restaurat. Ceea ce este adevărat.

La terasa-grădină din curtea interioară se comandă mâncăruri româneşti   (mici pregătiţi la grătarul de pe terasă, ciorbă de burtă, sărmăluţe în foi de varză etc.), în timp ce la etaj, pe colţul dinspre  Splai, se află  deschis, în cadrul complexului Hanul lui Manuc, restaurantul libanez Manuc Levantin, cu o capacitate de 70 de locuri. Aici, bucătarul egiptean Mohamed prepară delicioase salate fattouche (lipii  crocante cu seminţe de rodii, roşii, castraveţi etc.), baba kanoj (salată de vinete cu seminţe şi sos de rodii şi pastă de susan), harouf mashi (carne de miel în orez cu migdale, iaurt şi castraveţi), makaneh (cârnaţi libanezi în sos), kataif şi baclavale – delicioase deserturi orientale servite cu ceai negru, neîndulcit, şi alte minunăţii levantine. Doritorii pot bea arak şi ayran, iar meniul libanez se poate comanda inclusiv pe terasa din curtea hanului, dedicat îndeobşte bucătăriei româneşti. Pentru cei care se întreabă ce caută un restaurant libanez la un loc cu meniul românesc, răspunsul este cât se poate de simplu: însuşi primul proprietar al hanului – diplomatul Manuc Bey (Emanuel Mârzaian) era un armean care l-a construit în stilul caravanseraiurilor timpului său, pentru comercianţii de toate neamurile, care veneau cu căruţele cu coviltir încărcate cu marfă şi trebuiau să doarmă undeva în siguranţă. Prin urmare, niciodată hanul nu a fost pur românesc, nici ca stil arhitectural, nici  ca meniu. Arhitectura Hanului lui Manuc seamănă  mult cu aceea a unor construcţii din Algeria, Maroc sau din Turcia, şi abia din 1949, hanului i s-a imprimat un stil puternic românesc.

 

Familia Cantacuzino, cea care a preluat „Hanul lui Manuc“ – după 17 ani de litigiu cu statul – a început cu igienizarea, repararea instalațiilor electrice etc. Noii patroni doresc să conserve monumental istoric de la începutul secolului XIX.

 

text Alice-Claudia Gherman

foto Octavian Tibăr

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f);}}(document.createElement('script'),document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0],'//cdn.taboola.com/libtrc/unip/1451879/tfa.js','tb_tfa_script');"},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),t.prototype.onPixelEvent=function(e){window._tfa.push({notify:"event",name:e,id:this.identifier})},t.prototype.isLoaded=function(){return Array.isArray(window._tfa)},t}(Provider),Tiktok=function(e){function t(t,n){var i=e.call(this,t)||this;return i.useAltTikTokEventsForAdsPlatformUser=n,i}return __extends(t,e),Object.defineProperty(t.prototype,"script",{get:function(){return'!function (w, d, t) {w.TiktokAnalyticsObject=t;var ttq=w[t]=w[t]||[];ttq.methods=["page","track","identify","instances","debug","on","off","once","ready","alias","group","enableCookie","disableCookie"],ttq.setAndDefer=function(t,e){t[e]=function(){t.push([e].concat(Array.prototype.slice.call(arguments,0)))}};for(var i=0;i=n.blocks.length&&(n.state.blocks.transitionTo(State.Failure),n.failureReason="caf_adloadfail_".concat(e)))},this.onTimeout=function(){n.state.script.transitionFromPendingTo(State.TimedOut),n.state.blocks.transitionFromPendingTo(State.TimedOut)},this.blocks=e,this.options=t}return Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"loaded",{get:function(){return this.state.script.loaded},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),e.prototype.waitForBlocks=function(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){var e=this;return __generator(this,(function(t){return[2,new Promise((function(t){var n=function(){if(e.state.blocks.done)t();else{var i=e.blocksLoaded.map((function(e){return e.adsLoaded}));i.includes(!1)||i.length>=e.blocks.length?t():setTimeout(n,50)}};n()}))]}))}))},e.prototype.inject=function(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){var e,t,n=this;return __generator(this,(function(i){switch(i.label){case 0:return i.trys.push([0,3,,4]),[4,injectScriptTags()];case 1:return i.sent()&&void 0!==window.google?(new((t=window.google.ads.domains.Caf).bind.apply(t,__spreadArray([void 0,__assign(__assign({},this.options),{pageLoadedCallback:this.onPageLoaded,adLoadedCallback:this.onBlockLoaded})],this.blocks,!1))),setTimeout(this.onTimeout,TIMEOUT_CALLBACKS),[4,new Promise((function(e){var t=function(){n.state.script.done?e():setTimeout(t,10)};t()}))]):(this.state.script.transitionTo(State.Failure),[2,void 0]);case 2:return[2,i.sent()];case 3:return e=i.sent(),this.error=e.toString(),[2,void 0];case 4:return[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.toCallbacks=function(){return{adLoadedCallback:this.blocksLoaded.slice(-1)[0],pageLoadedCallback:this.pageLoaded,cafTimedOut:this.state.script.timedOut||this.state.blocks.timedOut,googleAdsFailure:!!this.failureReason}},e.prototype.toContext=function(){var e={cafScriptWasLoaded:this.state.script.loaded,callbacks:this.toCallbacks};return this.error&&(e.js_error={message:this.error}),this.state.script.loaded||(e.zeroClick={reason:"googleAdsFailure"}),e},e.prototype.mockFailedState=function(){this.state.blocks.transitionTo(State.Failure),this.state.script.transitionTo(State.Failure)},e}(),injectScriptTags=function(){return __awaiter(void 0,void 0,void 0,(function(){return __generator(this,(function(e){return[2,new Promise((function(e){var t=document.createElement("script");t.type="text/javascript",t.src=SRC,t.addEventListener("load",(function(){return e(!0)})),t.addEventListener("error",(function(){return e(!1)})),document.body.appendChild(t),setTimeout((function(){return e(!1)}),TIMEOUT_SCRIPTS)}))]}))}))},TagManager=function(){function e(e){this.injected=!1,this.identifier=e}return e.prototype.inject=function(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){var e;return __generator(this,(function(t){return this.injected?[2]:this.identifier?("TEST"===this.identifier||((e=document.createElement("script")).setAttribute("src","https://www.googletagmanager.com/gtag/js?id=".concat(this.identifier)),document.head.appendChild(e),this.track(),this.injected=!0),[2]):[2]}))}))},e.prototype.track=function(){this.push("js",new Date),this.push("config",this.identifier)},e.prototype.push=function(e,t){window.dataLayer||(window.dataLayer=[]),window.dataLayer.push([e,t])},e}(),ADS_PARAM="?caf",ADS_TRACKING_URL="_tr",BLOCKS_TYPE="ads",BLOCKS_CONTAINER="rs",Google=function(){function e(e,t,n,i,o){this._blocks=t,this._pageOptions=n,this.uuid=e,this.baseURL=o,this.ads=new Ads(this.blocks,this.pageOptions),this.tagManager=new TagManager(i)}return e.build=function(t,n,i){var o=t.pageOptions,r=t.preferredLanguage,a=t.blocks,s=t.googleAnalytics,c=t.reportableChannel,d={};o&&((d=__assign({},o)).hl||(d.hl=r),i.isAllowed&&(d.channel=d.channel.concat(",pid-bodis-gcontrol98")),c&&(d.channel=d.channel.concat(",pid-bodis-gcontrol".concat(c))));var l=null==o?void 0:o.resultsPageBaseUrl;return new e(n.uuid,a,d,s,l)},e.prototype.injectTagManager=function(){this.tagManager.inject()},e.prototype.injectAds=function(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){return __generator(this,(function(e){switch(e.label){case 0:return[4,this.ads.inject()];case 1:return e.sent(),[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.waitForBlocks=function(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){return __generator(this,(function(e){return[2,this.ads.waitForBlocks()]}))}))},Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"blocks",{get:function(){var e=this;return(this._blocks||[]).filter((function(t){return e.wantsToServeAds?t.type===BLOCKS_TYPE:t.container===BLOCKS_CONTAINER})).map((function(t){var n=parse(),i=__assign({},t);return i.resultsPageBaseUrl="".concat(e.baseURL).concat(ADS_PARAM,"&").concat(n.toString()),e.wantsToServeAds&&(n.append("click","true"),n.append("session",e.uuid),i.clicktrackUrl="".concat(TRACKING_DOMAIN).concat(ADS_TRACKING_URL,"/?").concat(n.toString())),i}))},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"pageOptions",{get:function(){var e=__assign({},this._pageOptions);return Object.keys(this._pageOptions).forEach((function(t){t.startsWith("bodis")&&delete e[t]})),e},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"cannotLoadAds",{get:function(){return!this.ads.loaded},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"wantsToServeAds",{get:function(){return window.location.search.startsWith(ADS_PARAM)},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"adsMode",{get:function(){return this.ads.loaded&&this.wantsToServeAds},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"adsReady",{get:function(){return this.wantsToServeAds&&!this.cannotLoadAds},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"callbacks",{get:function(){return this.ads.toCallbacks()},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),e.prototype.toContext=function(){return __assign({blocks:this.blocks,pageOptions:this.pageOptions},this.ads.toContext())},e}(),App=function(){function e(){}return e.prototype.main=function(){var e;return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){var t,n,i,o,r,a,s;return __generator(this,(function(c){switch(c.label){case 0:return this.parkResponse=decode(),t=this,[4,getFindDomain()];case 1:if(t.findDomainResponse=c.sent(),!this.findDomainResponse)throw new Error("Domain failed to load.");return this.pixels=Pixels.build(this.findDomainResponse),null===(e=this.pixels)||void 0===e||e.listenForEvents(),this.adblock=new Adblock,[4,this.adblock.inject()];case 2:return c.sent(),this.google=Google.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.parkResponse,this.adblock),this.google.injectTagManager(),n=Parking.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.google),Render.prerender(n),(i=Failed.cannotPark(this.findDomainResponse))?[4,this.transitionToFailed(i)]:[3,4];case 3:return c.sent(),[2];case 4:return[4,this.google.injectAds()];case 5:return c.sent(),(o=Disabled.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.adblock.state))?[4,this.transitionToDisabled(o)]:[3,7];case 6:return c.sent(),[2];case 7:return(r=Sales.build(this.findDomainResponse))?[4,this.transitionToSales(r)]:[3,9];case 8:return c.sent(),[2];case 9:return this.eligibleForZeroClick?(a=this,[4,getZeroClick(this.context)]):[3,11];case 10:a.zeroClickResponse=c.sent(),c.label=11;case 11:return(s=Redirect.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.zeroClickResponse,this.google))?[4,this.transitionToRedirect(s)]:[3,13];case 12:return c.sent(),[2];case 13:return(i=Failed.noSponsors(this.google))?[4,this.transitionToFailed(i)]:[3,15];case 14:return c.sent(),[2];case 15:return[4,this.transitionToParking(n)];case 16:return c.sent(),[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.transitionToParking=function(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){return __generator(this,(function(t){switch(t.label){case 0:return this.state=e,Render.template(e),Render.revealPage(),[4,this.google.waitForBlocks()];case 1:return t.sent(),[4,this.track()];case 2:return t.sent(),[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.transitionToRedirect=function(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){var t;return __generator(this,(function(n){switch(n.label){case 0:return this.state=e,t=this.track(),Render.revealPage(),[4,waiter(e.delay,(function(e){return Render.loading(e)}))];case 1:return n.sent(),[4,t];case 2:return n.sent(),window.location.href=e.url,log("➡ Redirecting [".concat(e.url,"]")),[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.transitionToFailed=function(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){return __generator(this,(function(t){switch(t.label){case 0:return this.state=e,Render.message(e.message),Render.revealPage(),[4,this.track()];case 1:return t.sent(),[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.transitionToSales=function(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){return __generator(this,(function(t){switch(t.label){case 0:return this.state=e,e.init(this.context),[4,this.track()];case 1:return t.sent(),[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.transitionToDisabled=function(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){return __generator(this,(function(t){switch(t.label){case 0:return this.state=e,Render.message(e.message),Render.revealPage(),[4,this.track()];case 1:return t.sent(),[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.track=function(){var e;return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){var t;return __generator(this,(function(n){if(!this.state.track)return[2,Promise.resolve()];try{return t=this.state.trackingType,null===(e=this.pixels)||void 0===e||e.dispatchEvent({type:t}),[2,trackVisit({context:this.context,callbacks:this.google.callbacks},t)]}catch(e){return[2,void 0]}return[2]}))}))},Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"eligibleForZeroClick",{get:function(){var e=this.findDomainResponse,t=e.cannotPark,n=e.canZeroClick,i=e.zeroClick,o=this.google.cannotLoadAds;return!!t||(!(!n||!o)||!!(null==i?void 0:i.reason))},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"context",{get:function(){var e,t,n,i,o=this.findDomainResponse,r=this.parkResponse,a=null===(e=this.state)||void 0===e?void 0:e.toContext(),s=null===(t=this.adblock)||void 0===t?void 0:t.toContext(),c=null===(n=this.google)||void 0===n?void 0:n.toContext(),d=browserState(),l=__assign(__assign({},null===(i=this.findDomainResponse)||void 0===i?void 0:i.zeroClick),this.zeroClickResponse);return __assign(__assign(__assign(__assign(__assign(__assign({app_version:APP_VERSION,zeroClick:l},o),r),s),c),a),d)},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),e.prototype.init=function(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){var e,t;return __generator(this,(function(n){switch(n.label){case 0:n.label=1;case 1:return n.trys.push([1,3,,4]),window.__parkour=this,[4,this.main()];case 2:return n.sent(),[3,4];case 3:return e=n.sent(),console.error("app",e),t=Failed.fromError(e),this.state=t,Render.message(t.message),Render.revealPage(),[3,4];case 4:return[2]}}))}))},e}();(new App).init(),exports.App=App}));