LIFESTYLE

Safari în Kenya şi sejur la Oceanul Indian

July 1st, 2007, com Comenteaza

Cine ajunge în fantastica ţară africană îşi doreşte, întâi de toate, să experimenteze viaţa sălbatică de prin savane. Discovery pebune… Abia apoi, dacă mai are timp (deşi, fie vorba-ntre noi, ar face bine să-şi găsească!) se răsfaţă pe ţărmurile cu nisip alb, udate de apele turcoaz ale Oceanului Indian.

Şi eu am păţit la fel. Mi-am dorit cu orice preţ un safari kenyan. Nici prin gând nu-mi trecea că aş putea face altceva pe legendarele pământuri ale masailor… Aşa că am alergat după cele mai impresionan­te capturi foto… antilope gnu, elefanţi roşietici, ciudatele păsări marabu, zebre agitate, gazele Thomson, girafe, chiar şi minusculele antilope Dick-Dick (ce nume predestinat!) mi-au ieşit în cale în parcul Amboseli. Mă lăsasem condus de Patrick, un şofer al naibii de negru şi de prietenos, care râdea întruna, dezgolindu-şi dinţii cei mari şi albi, ca nişte boabe de fasole per­fecte. în microbuzul nostru se mai aflau Richard, un francez care ştie Kenya ca pe propriile buzunare, şi două fete de la Butterfly Tourism, Claudia şi Ioana.

Amboseli are vreo 400 de kilometri pătraţi şi e un loc dominat de întinse câm­pii uscate. Orizontul se pierde în depărtare, iar cerul devine realmente una cu pământul. Kilimanjaro, cel mai impre­sionat munte african, localizat geografic în Tanzania, se vede spectaculos din Amboseli. De fapt, una dintre cele mai cunoscute imagini ale Kenyei reprezintă nişte turme de elefanţi traversând câm­piile Amboseli, cu Kilimanjaro, răsărind maiestuos, undeva în spate. Şi tot Amboseli este casa celor mai multe comu­nităţi de masai. Puternici şi independenţi, masaii sunt oameni care încă mai cred în tradiţiile şi ritualurile pe care le-au moştenit de pe vremea când toate popoa­rele erau organizate în triburi şi ginţi. Ei nu se consideră doar nişte locuitori ai zonei. Pretind că sunt parte integrantă din viaţa pământului, aşa cum pământul este parte din viaţa lor. Unii acceptă să lucreze în turism, devenind un fel de bodyguarzi ai celor ce se încumetă să meargă în savană. în comunităţile de masai, bărbaţii au grijă să ducă ritualurile mai departe şi merg la vânătoare. De altfel, numai masaii mai au voie să vâneze în Kenya. Femeile cresc copii, construiesc casele din lut, punându-le acoperişuri de nuiele, au grijă de sat, fac mâncare, haine şi podoabe.

Amboseli este renumit pentru turmele imense de elefanţi şi pentru cetele de bivoli. Ne-am întâlnit şi cu unii şi cu alţii. O turmă de bivoli ne-a răsărit, la un moment dat, în partea stângă a microbu­zului. Ne vedeam, cu băgare de seamă, de fotografiile noastre, când în partea dreaptă a răsărit o leoaică. Ne-am dat seama că suntem folosiţi drept paravan, dar şi bivolii s-au prins de intenţiile ei, tra- tând-o cu sictir. Richard a început să ne povestească de Big Five – cele cinci ani­male periculoase pentru om: leul, elefan­tul, bivolul, rinocerul şi leopardul. „Cine întâlneşte trei dintre cele cinci animale într-un safari de trei zile, poate spune că a avut noroc”. Noi, de exemplu, am avut. în afară de babuini, struţi, marabu, hipo­potami şi alte şi alte specii, ne-au invadat obiectivele aparatelor foto şi vreo câteva turme de elefanţi. Pierduţi în savană, fie­care în parte seamănă cumva cu tăuraşul Ferdinand, dar de vreo două ori, masculul dominant, cu trompa lui şuierândă, abia s-a abţinut să nu ne atace.

In Amboseli, am dormit într-un lodge de patru stele. O construcţie care n-are nimic dintr-un hotel obişnuit. Un fel de bungalow, cocoţat pe nişte stâlpi de 4-5 metri, direct în inima savanei. Ca să ajun­gem la recepţie, trebuia să apăsăm pe un buton şi să aşteptăm până venea un masai care ne asigura protecţia. Alte lodge-uri sunt corturi de lux, tot de 4-5 stele, acoperite cu stuf, cu băi luxoase şi confort pe măsură.

Am mâncat tot felul de frigărui, din cele mai diverse cărnuri, de la iepure, la pui, oaie şi vită. Totul mergea ca uns cu dawa, o băutură locală pe care orice chel­ner ţi-o prepară cu 25 de grame de votcă, suc de lămâie, cinci cuburi mari de gheaţă… în tot acest amestec, se înmoaie un băţ trecut prin zahăr brun, miere şi încă un ingredient secret, pe care nimeni n-are de gând să-l spună turiştilor. Oricum, am aflat că dawa înseamnă doftorie şi că te tratează de toate bolile pământului.

La sfârşit, vă spun pe scurt ce sur­priză am avut când am ajuns pe coasta kenyană, acolo unde savana cea sălbatică se întâlneşte cu Oceanul Indian. Mombasa, de exemplu, este un paradis tropical, palmierii dau bestial pe nisipul de-o albeaţă impresionantă şi te lasă mut. Turcoazul oceanului împreună cu recifurile spectaculoase de corali sunt incredibil de frumoase şi-ţi conferă o stare de bine etern. De fapt, recifurile au creat plaje ideale, apa e calmă, zilele sunt mereu însorite, iar nopţile sunt irezistibil de plăcute, mai ales dacă mergeţi prin cluburile, restaurantele şi discotecile de pe ţărm. Dincolo de recifuri, sunt corali vii, peşti coloraţi, broaşte ţestoase şi del­fini. Iar pereţii recifurilor oferă, de aseme­nea, grădini imense, frumoase, de corali.

Cele mai hune olerte

Agenţia Butterfly Tourism www.butterfly.tv, tel.: 021/223.78.03

  • Sejur combinat cu safari Mombasa – Tsavo – Amboseli -1.459 euro/pers. Tariful include: 7 nopţi cazare în lodge categoria A, demipensiune, asis­tenţă pe tot parcursul safariului, şofer, microbuz cu 6 locuri.

Agenţia Prestige Touts www.pmstigetouis.n>, tel.: 021/319.77.94

  • Safari Abenteuer Kenia – 2.180 euro/2 persoane. Tariful include: 7 nopţi cazare în hoteluri sau lodge-uri de 4*, pensiune completă, transport cu minibus, asistenţă turistică, ghid.


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State$1.Pending:setTimeout((function(){return t.handlePixelEvent(e)}),100);break;case State$1.Loaded:t.onPixelEvent(e)}},this.watch=function(){switch(t.state){case State$1.Loaded:case State$1.Failed:break;case State$1.Pending:t.isLoaded()?t.state=State$1.Loaded:t.isTimedOut()?t.state=State$1.Failed:setTimeout(t.watch,50)}},e&&e.length>0?(this.identifier=e,this.state=State$1.Pending,this.timeoutAt=new Date,this.timeoutAt.setSeconds(this.timeoutAt.getSeconds()+this.timeoutAfter()),this.injectPixel()):this.state=State$1.Failed}return e.prototype.injectPixel=function(){this.injectedAt||(this.injectedAt=new Date,this.inject(),this.watch())},e.prototype.inject=function(){var e=document.createElement("script");e.text=this.script,document.head.appendChild(e)},e.prototype.isTimedOut=function(){return+new Date>=+this.timeoutAt},e.prototype.timeoutAfter=function(){return this.timeoutSeconds},e}(),Facebook=function(e){function t(){return null!==e&&e.apply(this,arguments)||this}return __extends(t,e),Object.defineProperty(t.prototype,"script",{get:function(){return"!function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s){if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function(){n.callMethod?n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments)};if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0';n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0;t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0];s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)}(window, document,'script','https://connect.facebook.net/en_US/fbevents.js');fbq('init', '".concat(this.identifier,"');")},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),t.prototype.onPixelEvent=function(e){window.fbq("trackCustom",e)},t.prototype.isLoaded=function(){return!!window.fbq},t}(Provider),Outbrain=function(e){function t(){return null!==e&&e.apply(this,arguments)||this}return __extends(t,e),Object.defineProperty(t.prototype,"script",{get:function(){return"!function(_window, _document) {var OB_ADV_ID = '".concat(this.identifier,"';if (_window.obApi) {var toArray = function(object) {return Object.prototype.toString.call(object) === '[object Array]' ? object : [object];};_window.obApi.marketerId = toArray(_window.obApi.marketerId).concat(toArray(OB_ADV_ID));return;}var api = _window.obApi = function() {api.dispatch ? api.dispatch.apply(api, arguments) : api.queue.push(arguments);};api.version = '1.1';api.loaded = true;api.marketerId = OB_ADV_ID;api.queue = [];var tag = _document.createElement('script');tag.async = true;tag.src = '//amplify.outbrain.com/cp/obtp.js';tag.type = 'text/javascript';var script = _document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0];script.parentNode.insertBefore(tag, script);}(window, document);")},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),t.prototype.onPixelEvent=function(e){window.obApi("track",e)},t.prototype.isLoaded=function(){return!!window.obApi},t}(Provider),Revcontent=function(e){function t(){return null!==e&&e.apply(this,arguments)||this}return __extends(t,e),Object.defineProperty(t.prototype,"script",{get:function(){return""},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),t.prototype.inject=function(){var e=document.createElement("script");e.src="https://assets.revcontent.com/master/rev.js",document.head.appendChild(e)},t.prototype.onPixelEvent=function(e){window.rev("event",e)},t.prototype.isLoaded=function(){return!!window.rev},t}(Provider),Taboola=function(e){function t(){return null!==e&&e.apply(this,arguments)||this}return __extends(t,e),Object.defineProperty(t.prototype,"script",{get:function(){return"window._tfa = window._tfa || [];!function (t, f, a, x) {if (!document.getElementById(x)) {t.async = 1;t.src = a;t.id=x;f.parentNode.insertBefore(t, f);}}(document.createElement('script'),document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0],'//cdn.taboola.com/libtrc/unip/1451879/tfa.js','tb_tfa_script');"},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),t.prototype.onPixelEvent=function(e){window._tfa.push({notify:"event",name:e,id:this.identifier})},t.prototype.isLoaded=function(){return Array.isArray(window._tfa)},t}(Provider),Tiktok=function(e){function t(){return null!==e&&e.apply(this,arguments)||this}return __extends(t,e),Object.defineProperty(t.prototype,"script",{get:function(){return'!function (w, d, t) {w.TiktokAnalyticsObject=t;var ttq=w[t]=w[t]||[];ttq.methods=["page","track","identify","instances","debug","on","off","once","ready","alias","group","enableCookie","disableCookie"],ttq.setAndDefer=function(t,e){t[e]=function(){t.push([e].concat(Array.prototype.slice.call(arguments,0)))}};for(var i=0;i=n.blocks.length&&(n.state.blocks.transitionTo(State.Failure),n.failureReason="caf_adloadfail_".concat(e)))},this.onTimeout=function(){n.state.script.transitionFromPendingTo(State.TimedOut),n.state.blocks.transitionFromPendingTo(State.TimedOut)},this.blocks=e,this.options=t}return Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"loaded",{get:function(){return this.state.script.loaded},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),e.prototype.waitForBlocks=function(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){var e=this;return __generator(this,(function(t){return[2,new Promise((function(t){var n=function(){if(e.state.blocks.done)t();else{var i=e.blocksLoaded.map((function(e){return e.adsLoaded}));i.includes(!1)||i.length>=e.blocks.length?t():setTimeout(n,50)}};n()}))]}))}))},e.prototype.inject=function(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){var e,t,n=this;return __generator(this,(function(i){switch(i.label){case 0:return i.trys.push([0,3,,4]),[4,injectScriptTags()];case 1:return i.sent()&&void 0!==window.google?(new((t=window.google.ads.domains.Caf).bind.apply(t,__spreadArray([void 0,__assign(__assign({},this.options),{pageLoadedCallback:this.onPageLoaded,adLoadedCallback:this.onBlockLoaded})],this.blocks,!1))),setTimeout(this.onTimeout,TIMEOUT_CALLBACKS),[4,new Promise((function(e){var t=function(){n.state.script.done?e():setTimeout(t,10)};t()}))]):(this.state.script.transitionTo(State.Failure),[2,void 0]);case 2:return[2,i.sent()];case 3:return e=i.sent(),this.error=e.toString(),[2,void 0];case 4:return[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.toCallbacks=function(){return{adLoadedCallback:this.blocksLoaded.slice(-1)[0],pageLoadedCallback:this.pageLoaded,cafTimedOut:this.state.script.timedOut||this.state.blocks.timedOut,googleAdsFailure:!!this.failureReason}},e.prototype.toContext=function(){var e={cafScriptWasLoaded:this.state.script.loaded,callbacks:this.toCallbacks};return this.error&&(e.js_error={message:this.error}),this.state.script.loaded||(e.zeroClick={reason:"googleAdsFailure"}),e},e.prototype.mockFailedState=function(){this.state.blocks.transitionTo(State.Failure),this.state.script.transitionTo(State.Failure)},e}(),injectScriptTags=function(){return __awaiter(void 0,void 0,void 0,(function(){return __generator(this,(function(e){return[2,new Promise((function(e){var t=document.createElement("script");t.type="text/javascript",t.src=SRC,t.addEventListener("load",(function(){return e(!0)})),t.addEventListener("error",(function(){return e(!1)})),document.body.appendChild(t),setTimeout((function(){return e(!1)}),TIMEOUT_SCRIPTS)}))]}))}))},TagManager=function(){function e(e){this.injected=!1,this.identifier=e}return e.prototype.inject=function(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){var e;return __generator(this,(function(t){return this.injected?[2]:this.identifier?("TEST"===this.identifier||((e=document.createElement("script")).setAttribute("src","https://www.googletagmanager.com/gtag/js?id=".concat(this.identifier)),document.head.appendChild(e),this.track(),this.injected=!0),[2]):[2]}))}))},e.prototype.track=function(){this.push("js",new Date),this.push("config",this.identifier)},e.prototype.push=function(e,t){window.dataLayer||(window.dataLayer=[]),window.dataLayer.push([e,t])},e}(),ADS_PARAM="?caf",ADS_TRACKING_URL="_tr",BLOCKS_TYPE="ads",BLOCKS_CONTAINER="rs",Google=function(){function e(e,t,n,i,o){this._blocks=t,this._pageOptions=n,this.uuid=e,this.baseURL=o,this.ads=new Ads(this.blocks,this.pageOptions),this.tagManager=new TagManager(i)}return e.build=function(t,n){var i=t.pageOptions,o=t.preferredLanguage,r=t.blocks,a=t.googleAnalytics,s={};i&&((s=__assign({},i)).hl||(s.hl=o));var c=null==i?void 0:i.resultsPageBaseUrl;return new e(n.uuid,r,s,a,c)},e.prototype.injectTagManager=function(){this.tagManager.inject()},e.prototype.injectAds=function(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){return __generator(this,(function(e){switch(e.label){case 0:return[4,this.ads.inject()];case 1:return e.sent(),[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.waitForBlocks=function(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){return __generator(this,(function(e){return[2,this.ads.waitForBlocks()]}))}))},Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"blocks",{get:function(){var e=this;return(this._blocks||[]).filter((function(t){return e.wantsToServeAds?t.type===BLOCKS_TYPE:t.container===BLOCKS_CONTAINER})).map((function(t){var n=parse(),i=__assign({},t);return i.resultsPageBaseUrl="".concat(e.baseURL).concat(ADS_PARAM,"&").concat(n.toString()),e.wantsToServeAds&&(n.append("click","true"),n.append("session",e.uuid),i.clicktrackUrl="".concat(TRACKING_DOMAIN).concat(ADS_TRACKING_URL,"/?").concat(n.toString())),i}))},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"pageOptions",{get:function(){var e=__assign({},this._pageOptions);return Object.keys(this._pageOptions).forEach((function(t){t.startsWith("bodis")&&delete e[t]})),e},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"cannotLoadAds",{get:function(){return!this.ads.loaded},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"wantsToServeAds",{get:function(){return window.location.search.startsWith(ADS_PARAM)},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"adsMode",{get:function(){return this.ads.loaded&&this.wantsToServeAds},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"adsReady",{get:function(){return this.wantsToServeAds&&!this.cannotLoadAds},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"callbacks",{get:function(){return this.ads.toCallbacks()},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),e.prototype.toContext=function(){return __assign({blocks:this.blocks,pageOptions:this.pageOptions},this.ads.toContext())},e}(),App=function(){function e(){}return e.prototype.main=function(){var e;return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){var t,n,i,o,r,a,s,c;return __generator(this,(function(d){switch(d.label){case 0:return this.parkResponse=decode(),t=this,[4,getFindDomain()];case 1:if(t.findDomainResponse=d.sent(),!this.findDomainResponse)throw new Error("Domain failed to load.");return this.pixels=Pixels.build(this.findDomainResponse),null===(e=this.pixels)||void 0===e||e.listenForEvents(),this.adblock=new Adblock,this.google=Google.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.parkResponse),this.google.injectTagManager(),n=Parking.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.google),Render.prerender(n),i=Promise.all([this.adblock.inject(),this.google.injectAds()]),(o=Failed.cannotPark(this.findDomainResponse))?[4,this.transitionToFailed(o)]:[3,3];case 2:return d.sent(),[2];case 3:return[4,i];case 4:return d.sent(),(r=Disabled.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.adblock.state))?[4,this.transitionToDisabled(r)]:[3,6];case 5:return d.sent(),[2];case 6:return this.eligibleForZeroClick?(a=this,[4,getZeroClick(this.context)]):[3,8];case 7:a.zeroClickResponse=d.sent(),d.label=8;case 8:return(s=Redirect.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.zeroClickResponse,this.google))?[4,this.transitionToRedirect(s)]:[3,10];case 9:return d.sent(),[2];case 10:return(c=Sales.build(this.findDomainResponse))?[4,this.transitionToSales(c)]:[3,12];case 11:return d.sent(),[2];case 12:return(o=Failed.noSponsors(this.google))?[4,this.transitionToFailed(o)]:[3,14];case 13:return d.sent(),[2];case 14:return[4,this.transitionToParking(n)];case 15:return d.sent(),[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.transitionToParking=function(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){return __generator(this,(function(t){switch(t.label){case 0:return this.state=e,Render.template(e),Render.revealPage(),[4,this.google.waitForBlocks()];case 1:return t.sent(),[4,this.track()];case 2:return t.sent(),[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.transitionToRedirect=function(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){var t;return __generator(this,(function(n){switch(n.label){case 0:return this.state=e,t=this.track(),Render.revealPage(),[4,waiter(e.delay,(function(e){return Render.loading(e)}))];case 1:return n.sent(),[4,t];case 2:return n.sent(),window.location.href=e.url,log("➡ Redirecting [".concat(e.url,"]")),[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.transitionToFailed=function(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){return __generator(this,(function(t){switch(t.label){case 0:return this.state=e,Render.message(e.message),Render.revealPage(),[4,this.track()];case 1:return t.sent(),[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.transitionToSales=function(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){return __generator(this,(function(t){switch(t.label){case 0:return this.state=e,e.init(this.context),[4,this.track()];case 1:return t.sent(),[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.transitionToDisabled=function(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){return __generator(this,(function(t){switch(t.label){case 0:return this.state=e,Render.message(e.message),Render.revealPage(),[4,this.track()];case 1:return t.sent(),[2]}}))}))},e.prototype.track=function(){var e;return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){var t;return __generator(this,(function(n){if(!this.state.track)return[2,Promise.resolve()];try{return t=this.state.trackingType,null===(e=this.pixels)||void 0===e||e.dispatchEvent({type:t}),[2,trackVisit({context:this.context,callbacks:this.google.callbacks},t)]}catch(e){return[2,void 0]}return[2]}))}))},Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"eligibleForZeroClick",{get:function(){var e=this.findDomainResponse,t=e.cannotPark,n=e.canZeroClick,i=e.zeroClick,o=this.google.cannotLoadAds;return!!t||(!(!n||!o)||!!(null==i?void 0:i.reason))},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"channel",{get:function(){var e,t,n=this,i=n.adblock,o=n.google.adsMode,r=n.findDomainResponse.reportableChannel,a=(null===(t=null===(e=this.findDomainResponse)||void 0===e?void 0:e.pageOptions)||void 0===t?void 0:t.channel)||"";return i.state===Blocking.ALLOWED&&(a=a.concat(",pid-bodis-gcontrol98")),o&&r&&(a=a.concat(",pid-bodis-gcontrol".concat(r))),a},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),Object.defineProperty(e.prototype,"context",{get:function(){var e,t,n,i,o,r=__assign(__assign(__assign(__assign(__assign(__assign(__assign({app_version:APP_VERSION},this.parkResponse),this.findDomainResponse),{pageOptions:null===(e=this.findDomainResponse)||void 0===e?void 0:e.pageOptions,zeroClick:__assign(__assign({},null===(t=this.findDomainResponse)||void 0===t?void 0:t.zeroClick),this.zeroClickResponse)}),null===(n=this.adblock)||void 0===n?void 0:n.toContext()),null===(i=this.google)||void 0===i?void 0:i.toContext()),null===(o=this.state)||void 0===o?void 0:o.toContext()),browserState());return r.pageOptions.channel=this.channel,r},enumerable:!1,configurable:!0}),e.prototype.init=function(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function(){var e,t;return __generator(this,(function(n){switch(n.label){case 0:n.label=1;case 1:return n.trys.push([1,3,,4]),window.__parkour=this,[4,this.main()];case 2:return n.sent(),[3,4];case 3:return e=n.sent(),console.error("app",e),t=Failed.fromError(e),this.state=t,Render.message(t.message),Render.revealPage(),[3,4];case 4:return[2]}}))}))},e}();(new App).init(),exports.App=App}));