Christiania Acolo unde arta nu se vrea în UE!

March 8th, 2011, Bogdan Hrib

Toată lumea a fost în Christiania, a vizitat locurile, a băut o cafea, a mâncat ceva, s-a plimbat pe străzile întortocheate, dar nimeni nu se simte prea confortabil să vorbească despre acele locuri. Nimeni din Copenhaga… Observ o jenă şi o oarecare indiferenţă… Sau poate respingere şi ignoranţă.

Aproape o mie de locuitori şi un milion de turişti pe an, apare scris pe un site. Dar ce înseamnă turişti, orice om în afară de cei 1.000? Ce este de fapt „Fristaden” Christiania – „Oraşul liber” în limba daneză?… Doar acolo, văzând cu ochii mei, probabil, voi înţelege. Aşadar, istoria unui oraş tolerat în mai multe episoade.

Episodul 1 (cercetare) – Puncte, puncte… galbene!

Luni dimineaţă. Devreme. Frig şi ploaie mocănească. Mă urc într-un autobuz care mă duce în centru, în Noua Piaţă a Regalităţii, acolo unde începe unul dintre cele mai renumite locuri turistice din Copenhaga – Nyhavn, cu restaurantele şi terasele sale. Nu acolo vreau să merg. Pornesc mai departe pe jos, trec podul spre cartierul Christianshavn şi aleg un traseu pe malul unui canal. Nu am hartă cu mine. Vreau să descopăr locurile fără nici un fel de pregătire, fără nici un fel de aşteptări, fără prejudecăţi… Lume puţină pe stradă, cei care trec pe lângă mine sunt bici- clişti grăbiţi. Se apropie ora 9. Pe canal băr- cuţe şi iahturi ancorate. Dintr-o dată se termină insula şi sunt nevoit să o iau la dreapta. Nu am nici un pod prin apropiere şi merg pe mal. O unitate militară. O şosea. Părinţi cu copii mici de mână aproape alergând. O grădiniţă prin apropiere. Şi, deodată, observ gardul. Ar fi fost şi greu să nu o fac pentru că este pictat tot cu graffiti multicolor. Bănuiesc că am ajuns la unul dintre colţurile Oraşului liber... Mă amuză de câte ori pronunţ, fie doar în minte, această sintagmă. Chiar fără hartă greşisem drumul doar cu vreo 300 de metri. Evit să caut intrarea de pe drumul principal şi cotesc la stânga pe lângă grădiniţă. Pe lângă gard.

Apoi brusc un drum de acces străjuit de doi stâlpi metalici, verticali pe care se află două moderne semafoare cu leduri aflate bineînţeles pe culoarea roşie. La mijloc între ele un stâlp retractabil. Un panou rotund de acces interzis pe care scrie Free City of Christiania. No cars allowed. Mă lămuresc de ce de-a lungul zidului sunt mulţimi de maşini parcate, nu foarte noi.

Arunc un ochi înăuntru. Nu se prea vede nimic, doar verdeaţă şi ţipenie de om. Mai departe pe lângă zid, pe care acum îl privesc în detaliu. Pictura multicoloră ascunde materialul din care este construit. Greu de definit – o veche împrejmuire de beton spart şi peticit, destul de artistic, cu cartoane, table sau scânduri; compact, dar eterogen.

O nouă intrare. Doar o uşă îngustă şi scundă în zid. Deasupra ei pictate trei cercuri galbene, pe un dreptunghi roşu. Steagul oraşului.

Mă întorc pe acelaşi drum şi caut la strada mare, intrarea principală. Până să o găsesc observ o staţie de autobus, 66. Chiar atunci opreşte unul şi doi sau trei bărbaţi coboară, cel mai solid poartă o valiză uriaşă, toţi se strecoară pe un gang pe care nu-l observasem şi pătrund undeva în oraş.

În fine, intrarea principală. Un fel de arc de triumf din lemn sculptat, cu figuri umane, aşezat între două clădiri vechi, cu aer de cazarmă. Nimeni nici aici. Pătrund. O bătrână pe o bicicletă nouă apare de nicăieri şi trece pe lângă mine ieşind vijelios. Undeva în dreapta, în jurul unor obiecte ce par a fi aparţinut unei fântâni arteziene, o clasă de studenţi sau elevi în ani mari îşi ascultă profesoara care le povesteşte ceva în daneză. Cam devreme pentru o oră de curs aici. privesc ceasul. Nici măcar 9.30.

Pe o clădire veche de lemn ce pare o cafenea odihnesc o mulţime de afişe puţin coşcovite.

Reclame pentru concerte ce au loc în oraş. Un panou vopsit cu litere roşii care invită turiştii la tururi de oraş cu ghizi profesionişti. Un număr de telefon şi un e-mail. Preţul – 40 de coroane – a fost modificat de multe ori pentru că au tot fost lipite petice de hârtie unul peste celălalt. De la cât s-o fi plecat pe vremuri?

Un alt panou sobru anunţă că pe teritoriul oraşului sunt interzise armele, drogurile şi orice formă de violenţă. E de bine. Păşesc atent pe după un fel de şopron din care se revarsă navete şi munţi de sticle goale. Mă aflu pe un fel de alee principală.

Mă opresc privind fix la alt panou. Uriaş. Please No Photos! Aparatul e în rucsac. Plouă. Şi totuşi? Din depărtare zăresc un grup care se apropie; au paşii un pic ezitanţi şi printre fuioarele de ceaţă par fioroşi. Mă întorc spre ieşire cu pas săltat.

Trecând pe sub portalul de lemn de la intrare citesc ce scrie pe dosul traversei late orizontale, care mă întâmpinase cu literele mari şi lucioase CHRISTIANIA. Pe dos sunt litere vopsite cu alb: Acum intraţi în Uniunea Europeană!

No comment. Voi reveni.

Citeste urmatoarea pagina: 1 2 3 4

Taguri: nr. 3 / martie 2011

Tuesday, March 8th, 2011 at 4:59 pm, ZOOM, RSS feed

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April 27, 2011 at 10:38 pm

Numele meu este Cristiana.Cred ca este un oras dragut.Inca nu am fost dar mias dori mult.

Raspunde

April 27, 2011 at 10:40 pm

Tot eu sunt.Ce credeti despre oras din scrierile de mai sus?Astept raspunsuri pe adresa de mail cristianascriba@yahoo.com

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Hi there, I found your site via Google while searching for a related topic, your website came up, it looks good. I’ve bookmarked it in my google bookmarks….

Christiania Acolo unde arta nu se vrea în UE!

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